[ blog » 2021 » 07_Tour_Italy ]d07: Aspromonte ( by Philipp Gesang, location: A crappy b&b in Nicotera)


After another not-so-early start in Reggio I headed right into mountains. The Aspromonte range practically extends until a few meters from the beach so this meant non-stop climbing right off the bat. At least until around 700 m of altitude the weather was pleasant and the scenery stunning, with a view of Sicily marking the horizon in the background of a series of steep gorges. After I left the settled area trees were growing densely enough to provide cover from the still glaring sun. A small detour was necessary after the route I had planned turned out to be in desolate state at one of the steepest sections -- sure I can handle crumbling roads and a 15 % gradient, just not both at the same time!

When I had almost reached the 1000 m mark, rain started pouring. With clouds looming in the distance all morning I expected the rain, but only the fraction of a millimeter that had been predicted by the forecast. Unfortunately, the rain seemed to only get worse with altitude so at around 1300 m I had to call it quits and dropped my plans of reaching the summit of the incredibly creatively named Montalto highest mountain of the Aspromonte. Like clockwork the rain receded when I descended and at around 1000 m again it was nearly gone.

The campsite that wasn't

In most of Italy you kind of have to reach the coast in the afternoon where the campsites are located. Today I had planned on spending the night at a site on the beach below the small town of Nicotera. However when I reached the designated location I found no campsite, just a bunch of flooded coastal roads and uninviting beach restaurants.

Tired from the almost 2000 m of climbing I booked a room at the nearest B&B instead. To get there I had to climb another 200 m up into Nicotera. It was kind of hard to find as the street was unmarked and the house with the number listed online was abandoned; in the end I managed to find the correct door with the help of some friendly locals.

By far the worst place I have stayed at so far. I had to leave the bicycle outside in the rain, the room interior is very basic and the worst of all, no wifi except on the balcony! That for a price that exceeds that of any B&B I stayed at so far during this trip. Did I mention the non-optional breakfast will be in some bar on the town square? "At any time." sounds fishy, I'd be surprised if they're open already when I show up.


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