Leaving Finland for Sweden
After a sunny morning in Turku the weather gradually worsened while the ferry Viking Glory approached Sweden, and reached peak awfulness when we reached the destination. Aland and the Stockholm archipelago were stunning to watch from the boat nevertheless. It seems a mystery how some of the smaller islands still remain populated; they can't have access to basic supplies like running water and electricity there.
Cycling wise, Sweden was a step down from Finland: No more two-lane bike paths on boths sides of the road, much of Stockholm's old town and center lacks bike paths altogether. Also the ones leading out of town were quite run down and the signage confusing at times. Still, the network of bike paths is extensive – especially compared to the average German town – and I got around comfortably even in the suburbs.
Due to the weather I cut short my sightseeing and headed more or less directly to the hotel in Solna for an early start in the morning. I would have plenty of time to see the main sights in the morning anyways. It was the right decision as the weather turned around completely over night and I was greeted by a blue, cloudless sky when I rolled out the hotel lobby.
Stockholm
First item on today's tourist itinerary was supposed to be the Haga palace which I assumed to be a kind of museum but it turned out to be fenced off from all sides with serious-looking signs forbidding as much as taking pictures. Even so, the palace was hidden behind the fences so I didn't get a halfway decent look at it anyways. Supposedly it belongs to that joke of a royal family the Swedes failed to get rid of. So much for the detour.
The stopover in Stockholm still left me with three more hours to kill in the morning hours before the bus would leave when I finally arrived in the old town. The ideal time slot to take a look at the Vasa! I've meant to go see that boat for a long, long time ever since decades ago I've seen some documentary about its preservation in polyethylene glycol that its wood was impregnated with for many years. Everything about the Vasa is fascinating and I now finally got to see it.
The museum building itself is a marvel of architecture that makes it almost impossible to not get a decent view of the main exhibit. It forms a kind of cocoon around the ship, presenting it on five floor levels with the rear / aft section running close to the ship's hull where the most ornate parts are located. The floors aren't just empty platforms either but have replicas of details of the ship for closer inspection; my favorite being a portrayal of the Polish enemy in a pose of submission, creeping under a table like a dog – near the stern of the ship where it was visible only from certain low vantage points when seated on the one of the two lavatories. The attention to detail and intricate design on all levels is almost comical considering how the Vasa sunk on its maiden voyage just outside the Stockholm harbor in full view of thousands of spectators. With its experimental double cannon deck the ship was more of a prototype really during an era when shipbuilders still mostly learned by experience. Well, they must have learned a great deal from the few minutes of the Vasa sailing. Tough luck for the poor monarch, a serendipitous event for posterity.
The Conclusion
The second leg of my return trip started just past noon when I boarded an overnight bus to Berlin. Not the most enticing idea, spending nineteen hours in a cramped vehicle, but alas the Swedish railways don't seem to be willing to drop their hostile stance towards cyclists anytime soon. And cramped it was for most of the route. Bad air and uncomfortable seats turned soon asphyxiated any hope I had to recover a bit during the night. At least the bike made it all the way to Berlin intact.
Back in Germany at last, where for all its flaws Deutsche Bahn still transports bicycles on a good day! Moreover I avoided flying for the entirety of the trip so the long return journey was a win after all.
gps tracks
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