[ blog » 2022 » 07_Tour_Norway ] d03: Langfjordbotn to Skaidi (by Philipp Gesang, location: The kitchen of a basic campsite)

wAfter breaking camp rather late I headed east along the coast in what was still sunny and dry weather. The scenery was a rather spectacular fjordscape for the entire morning. I drew some extra motivation from the lack of supplies because the village "handel" at Langfjordbotn, where I had hoped to stock up on foods for the day, was closed until ten. Tough luck as the nearest shopping opportunity along the road was 44 km away.

There I encountered two touring couples I had met before and a southbound German tourer from Mainz. The cycle tourer you meet up here are a special breed and eager to share tips and experiences. Among other things I bought a kilogram of apples which didn't last very long. Food just vanishes out of those Ortlieb bags I suppose.

Rock carvings

At Alta I hit the first milestone of my trip, the UNESCO world heritage site of the paleolithic (7000 to 2000 ya) rock carvings. The museum is designed as a short (3 km) hike along the coast which I rather enjoyed in the still dry weather. At a traditional Sami yurt at the beach I chatted with a local girl from the museum staff about reindeer and told her how earlier today I had passed an albino one that was jogging down the road; she replied that those albino reindeer were considered magical due to how rare they are and that you get a wish if you spot one -- well, I'll add that to the pile of wasted opportunities.

It was still only 16:00 h when I finished the museum hike and I felt reinvigorated from the walking and above all those apples. So instead of heading for one of the local campsites I decided to continue on toward the Kapp.

Alta and beyond

I had barely left the museum when it started pouring. Not ready for this I retreated to a Circle K gas station and had a Koppen of coffee with some junk food. The rain subsided soon and I rolled to the next supermarket to get provisions for a night out in the vast nothingness that lies to the northwest of Alta.

Between me and that big void there lay two steep climbs that I had to overcome. The toughest challenge of the day after 115 or so kilometers in the saddle! On the summit of the second climb at around 378 m above sealevel I caught up with the Swedish tourer who I started out at the same campsite today. We shared the wind -- a strong headwind! -- for about twenty kilometers before he found a suitable spot to pitch his tent. I stayed around because the place had resting benches with roofs which proved perfect for sitting out the incoming heavy rain.

After two hours of eating and conversation -- it was around 22:00 h already but that doesn't say much up here north of the arctic cirble -- I got back on the bike for another 20 km towards Skaidi where the road to Hammerfest forks off in the west. En route I passed a Croatian tourer who had a tough rainy three days in Norway and was about to quit and return to Finland where he liked about everything better.

Around midnight I reached Skaidi and simultaneously it started raining again. A sign indicating a campsite on the Hammerfest road was a pleasant surprise. When I arrived I was greeted by the densest swarm of midges I have ever endured; pitching a tent under constant attack by stinging bugs is not fun at all. But there's showers and even a kitchen, so in the end it was worth the trouble.


gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail gallery image thumbnail